India is considered
the mystical land, extraordinarily magical – the embodiment of spirituality. It is said that those who visit India are
touched by its ancient charm, forever entranced by its majesty. My experience in India was no exception. I was utterly vulnerable to its power, fully
captivated by the energy flowing throughout that sacred land. And it was through such captivation that I
discovered that India is also a land of resiliency – people, animals, and culture
prevailing despite the struggle to survive.
Raw and unadulterated, India is a place of ultimate wonderment and
beauty, yet a place where the unspeakable occurs. My connection to it evoked intense
experiences: spiritual moments of profound energy, fleeting and powerful
emotions, and physical encounters that ravaged my senses.
There is no other
place in the world quite as vibrant as India.
Even when inside the home, the energy that is the essence of India
penetrates the concrete walls and beckons one to experience it. Outside that door, every sense belonging to
the human being is overwhelmed and stimulated beyond conception. It is for this reason that people feel alive
when in India. Because every element that makes a being
sentient – the physical, mental, emotional, and the spiritual – are awakened
and moved to become part of the larger whole.
It is not millions of other beings living outside of our own existence,
it is a single organism of energy from which each one of us connects with,
feeds upon, and contributes to. This
collective energy encompasses the whole of India, yet its qualities vary so
greatly that the feel of it is unique to each specific location.
Bangalore, an
urban development within the southern state of Karnataka, was my city. To write about the deep and sometimes
perplexing relationship I have with Bangalore, and India as a whole, would
require an expansively detailed account of every single experience that formed
that connection. I cannot describe it in
a summarized or shallow piece. It would
take me a book, maybe even several to fully get my perspective across. Yet, as I sit and contemplate how I am to fit
an elephant into a mouse hole, I being to think about puja malas (prayer garlands). Constructed of exactly 108 beads, puja malas
are used in daily prayers to the divine.
My story in India – the occurrence of my own entrancement – cannot be
told in one bead, but many beads that make up the whole – my puja mala. A single experience – one bead of the garland
– will never tell my story, but it will provide a glimpse into a perspective
that is my own.
My connection to
India on a transcendent level was roused by the rich spiritual culture
consisting of multiple religions, ancient philosophy, and the mystical. The enigmatic religions within India have
always drawn me like a moth to a flame.
I am a Pagan, my religion near extinction in the Western world. Yet in India, I have seen reflections of it
in spiritual practice. Festivals
celebrate the solstices and equinoxes – the cyclic alignment of the moon and
the sun. The divine is connected to
nature – Earth goddesses and Sun gods revered and worshipped on auspicious days
– all life, including animals and plants, valued as sacred.
It was in the Hindu
temples and the Buddhist monasteries that I found the strongest vibrations of
the collective life energy of India and the essence of the divine. Beautifully designed and adorned with colorful
images of the deities, the outward appearance of any Hindu temple enticed me to
come inside. I would enter one with bare
feet, weaving my way through the cumulative crowds, until I found my own
place. There, I would ground myself to
the Earth below the temple’s structure, breathing in the positive energy
conjured by the hundreds of daily visitors that released their energies through
prayers to the divine. The smell of
burning sandalwood incense and fresh cut flowers, both given in observance of the
Gods, permeated the air in and around the temple, and was accompanied by the
sounds of sacred chants and prayers.
Through pujas, I obliged to run my right hand through the orange flame
in prayer, offer flowers to the Gods represented in sculptured form, and sit in
a meditative pose on the cold marble floors while reflecting on life. During such visits I observed the divine, and
such experiences became the spiritual beads of my mala.
Through my daily
experiences to discover the real India, I had various encounters that gave
birth to my physical and emotional connections with India. On a physical level, my senses were
constantly assaulted. While eating
Indian food, the variety of tastes – sweet, salty, and very spicy, enveloped me
in an environment of worldly pleasures.
I said I hated mangoes until I tried one native to India. Alphonsos they were called, small, but packed
with a delicate sweetness so divine that I became obsessed with obtaining their
juicy flesh. My love for sweet and spicy
coconut chutneys paired with the crispy wafer of a dosa served with spiced potato became my most desired meal. Indian chai – the perfect blend of native
northern teas and boiled milk and water became a fixation, the sweet smoothness
of it served in ridiculously miniscule quantities and just the right amount of
caffeine left me endlessly jonesing for its warm pick me up. On my daily walks, I would visit a local
restaurant, order two chai, and sit on the entrance stairs, my presence
stationary among the bustle; my eyes forever straying to faces glancing my way
as I sipped for a moment’s respite.
Like the asanas
in yoga, movement of life within Bangalore is fluid, seamless throughout the
day. I used to stand on the rooftop of
my four-story apartment building and watch the city. Everywhere there is life, pulsing with that
hidden energy of which we are instinctually attracted to. Spotted eagles above me soared in the sky,
crying their eagle calls. Parakeets
glided across the ever-present breeze in streaks of green color that only added
to the array of hues painted upon the endless expanse of buildings below. Above me, monsoon clouds gathered and slowly
rolled across the sky. They were
foreboding, threatening at any moment to open up, while the sun continued to
peak through in bursts of light that shed golden shafts of beauty upon the
environment.
When walking the
streets, I experienced an array of smells so contrastive that I either wanted
to vomit or breathe deeply and sigh.
Most often, the
smells unveiled were of cow or dog shit, rotting garbage, and putrid smoke.
If lucky however, I’d come across the cultural fragrances: jasmine
flowers, quality incense, steaming chai, or authentic Indian cuisine. It was when I got to experience such exotic
sensory stimulators that I felt the sacredness of India and the beat of its
life all around me.
The collection of
color presented throughout the whole of India is best described as a
kaleidoscope of piquancy. Experiencing
such an endemic element of India was a daily occurrence, found in the bright
saris the women wore, the billboard signs, and the contrastive buildings,
trees, and soil of the environment surrounding me. Wandering the streets, my sense of sight,
along with my hearing, was assailed through the movement on the streets. People, dogs, and cows walking every which
way, and the flow of traffic too close for comfort created a dizzying display,
while the noise that accompanied it incessantly incapacitated my hearing.
Everywhere I went
I carried my camera, eyes alert for scenes that might just capture the energy
of India. I would walk feeling as though I was moving through a sea of
energy, a vacuum of which my presence was floating and existing among millions
of others. The farther outward I
explored, the more people stared. Facial
expressions revealed curiosity, surprise, or distaste for the presence of a
white skinned woman roaming their territory.
Poor children approached me, sheer curiosity overcoming their shyness to
ask me to photograph them. They would
gather together, happily smiling as I arranged compositions. Their delightful giggles drawing more to the
crowd that encircled me to catch a glimpse of images produced.
My emotional
connection to India grew intense and compelling. I respected India, feared it, loved it, and
hated it. The encounters with the people
and animals stirred my emotions in ways that left me wondering who I was. I fell in love with India through the experiences
that were uplifting, inspiring, and transcendent. My love for India grew because of the welcoming
and kind-hearted people that invited me into their homes, introduced me to
their culture and befriended me in lonely times. That love was also found in the rich culture
that drew me in through its promotion of peace, and in the life energy that
encompasses all existence.
I hated India
because of my witness to raw and indescribable things that saddened me so
severely I felt utterly helpless. The
emotions that brought pain to my heart included my encounters with the starving
and suffering animals, the homeless beggars, the abandoned elders, and exploited
children. Poverty and resilience are
everywhere in India, and I could not escape their impressions upon my
life. The poor gypsy children without
education, food security, or positive futures unveiled their despair and their
hope when I looked into their eyes.
Their dirty, tattered clothing, and frail, tiny bodies reminiscent of
experiences no child should ever endure. I encountered the malnourished and neglected
animals fighting for survival in a cruel world, bodies ravaged, and rampant
with disease, yet awareness and tenderness still presented for those who showed
them the slightest bit of compassion. I
witnessed centuries old trees cut down for development, felt their Earth spirits
dying, as I smelled the exhaust of the machines that took their lives. Such an emotional attachment and empathy for
all life within India provoked me, informed me, that I would one day return no
matter how painful it would be. The
proverbial beads of emotion within my mala reflected all that was right and wrong
within the world I lived.
My connection to India
encompasses every element of life, the deepness of it surpassing my shallow
existence in America. India’s impression continues
to evoke my awareness, connect me to the spiritual, and remind me that I am
alive. In all its majesty, tragedy, and
mysticism, India is a sensory, emotional, and spiritual experience like no
other.
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